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时间:2021-12-18 来源:eisar.com.cn 作者:月夜星空文库网

本文由W&W专业腕表测评网站出品

发条鱼原创翻译

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

If there’s one watch that still haunts the collective dreams of the watch lover community since SIHH 2017 it’s the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. In the 40-ish years since the Royal Oak's conception, Gerald Genta’s avant-garde masterpiece has seen it all. Cases made of steel, gold, platinum, and forged carbon, married to nearly every type of complication under the sun in haute horology – but never in full ceramic, both case and bracelet. It’s this fresh addition to the legacy of variety combined with one of the most iconic designs in watchmaking that have made this Royal Oak in particular one for the ages.

自从2017年日内瓦国际高级钟表沙龙举办以来,如果说有一款手表仍然是众多手表爱好者的共同追求,那应该就是爱彼皇家橡树万年历了。 在皇家橡树推出的40多年里,杰拉尔德·吉塔很早就开始使用陶瓷制造表壳。由钢,黄金,铂金和锻造碳制成的表壳几乎被运用到在世界上所有类型的复杂时计上,但从来没有同时在表圈和表链上采用陶瓷材质。正是这种新颖形式的加入,再结合制表业中最具标志性的设计之一(爱彼八角形表壳),使得这款皇家橡树在这个年代脱颖而出.

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

For this year’s edition of SIHH, Audemars Piguet introduced the all-black Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch ref. 26579CE in ceramic – as aforementioned, marking the first time the Swiss watchmaker has paired this case material to this particular complication. However, unlike previous ceramic case offerings which usually came fitted with rubber or exotic leather straps, Audemars Piguet is also introducing a brand new ceramic bracelet, hand-finished to the watchmaker’s signature staggering degree of detail to perfectly complement the Royal Oak case.

对于今年在SIHH亮相的版本,则是全黑陶瓷皇家橡树万年历腕表,腕表型号为ref.26579CE。如上所述,这是瑞士制表第一次将这种材料与这种特殊的复杂功能结合在一起。然而,不同于以前的陶瓷表壳腕表,通常配有橡胶或异国情调的皮革表带,爱彼还推出了全新的陶瓷表带,纯手工打造的表盘的标志性大格纹装饰细节完美搭配皇家橡树表壳。

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

From titanium and forged carbon to ceramic itself, Audemars Piguet has championed the use of exotic case materials for the better part of the last decade, so it should come as little surprise that the brand’s expertise finally gave birth to a matching ceramic bracelet for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. But the bracelet didn’t come easily – some 600 hours of research and development were invested into its production, largely because the true signature of an Audemars Piguet isn’t just the employment of exotic materials, but a mastery of finishing them with traditional high-end techniques usually reserved for metals like steel or gold. And because of ceramic’s notorious difficulty to produce and manipulate, it takes a highly trained technician over 30 hours to machine, polish, hand-finish, assemble, and control this particular ceramic bracelet – over five times longer than executing the same production procedures on a standard Audemars Piguet Royal Oak stainless steel bracelet.

从钛和锻造碳到陶瓷,爱彼在过去十年里一直致力于打造独特的表壳材料,如今爱彼通过自身的专业制表技术终于成功推出陶瓷表链并运用在皇家橡树系列表款上。打造这样一款表链是非常复杂的,新型的黑色高科技陶瓷经过了 600 小时研发(25 天),很大程度上是因为打造一枚全新爱彼表不仅仅只是改变一下材质这么简单,更要以传统用于钢铁和黄金等金属的加工手段加工新型材料。而且由于陶瓷对于手工装饰具有极高的处理难度,需要一位训练有素的技术人员花30个小时来加工,抛光,手工打磨,组装和调节这种特殊的陶瓷表带,是用同样标准程序加工一条精钢表带所需时间的5倍。

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

The end result is both seamless and sinister – delivering the same singular, unbroken aesthetic between case and bracelet we’re used to seeing on other Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar offerings in steel and gold, and quite frankly, the way the watch has always been meant to be worn. In ceramic, however, the watch remains lightweight, yet just assertive enough to lend the feeling of an ultralight titanium sport watch, but one whose finishing goes to eleven.

最终呈现的样子就是这样更加平整并且有意思暗黑风格,表壳和表链呈现独特的、一体化工艺美感,就像皇家橡树其他精钢款、黄金款所呈现的造型。坦率地说,手表就是用来佩戴的,戴着越舒服越好。陶瓷表带更加轻便,你完全可以感受到超轻量钛合金般的运动手表体验,不过这枚表款精致的多。

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

Since it sprung to life for the first time in 1955, Audemars Piguet’s perpetual calendar movement has been another hallmark for the brand, and while the self-winding Caliber 5134 fitted to this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar still bears the less-than-subtle recessed adjusters on the 9:00 side of the case, it’s still a highly modern movement deeply connected to the brand’s origins, bearing the reminder that the source of all time measurement ultimately begins and ends in the stars. To be more specific, though, the 5134 is sized specifically for the 41mm case and yields a three-register layout with month and leap year indicators at 12:00, a moonphase display at 6:00, and the day of the week at 9:00. Running the circumference of the dial on the rehaut is a central-mounted 52-week pointer. Even at that level of complication, the 5134 runs a svelte 4.31mm thick, which helps maintain the Royal Oak’s classically thin silhouette.

自1955年首次亮相以来,Audemars Piguet的万年历机芯一直是该品牌的另一标志,这款皇家橡树万年历搭载自动上链机芯Calibre 5134。Calibre 5134始终保持低调设计,表壳9点侧面凹陷的微调装置,它是一个与品牌起源有深切联系的现代化机芯,提醒所有计时技术均衍生自天文学和自然的循环周期。更具体来讲,5134是经改进扩大来适应41毫米表壳的,表盘上的月份和闰年指标在12点钟位置,日期显示在3点钟位置,月相显示在6点钟位置,星期显示在9点钟位置。表盘外圈为一年52个星期显示。承载如此复杂的功能,5134厚度也就4.31毫米,使得这款皇家橡树保有经典的古典纤薄外观。

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

It just wouldn’t be a Royal Oak without the textured "Grande Tapisserie” guilloche dial, nor would it be one without the applied white gold hour indices, or octagonal bezel – all of which are mandatory signatures that have collectively made this watch a joy to behold through the ages. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar edition gets one other neat flourish – a photorealistic rendering of the moon, as sharply contrasted against the inky black case as the real thing beaming down from a dark winter sky.

如果表盘没有镌刻有“Grande Tapisserie”的大型格纹装饰、没有白金材质荧光立体时标抑或是八角形表圈,这款表就不能称其为皇家橡树。所有这些都是爱彼的独一无二的印记,正式这些独一无二让爱彼在这个时代绽放光彩。皇家橡树万年历版本还有一个令人惊奇的工艺 ,以真实的月球图像显示天文精确月相,与墨黑色部件形成鲜明对比,就像一轮真正的明月黑暗的冬夜天空升上来。

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

腕表评测丨是男人都会心动!皇家橡树陶瓷万年历!

There’s a lot to love about Audemars Piguet finally delivering a bracelet in ceramic – and while the Perpetual Calendar makes the most sense for the bracelet's debut, we’re holding out hope that a ceramic bracelet for the ROO Diver is soon to follow. The price for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (reference 26579CE) in full ceramic is $93,900, which is comparable to the asking price of the gold variants introduced in 2015. audemarspiguet.com

Audemars Piguet最终还是成功推出了一款陶瓷表带!而“Perpetual Calendar”则是陶瓷表带首次亮相的最有意义的产品,我们希望ROO Diver的陶瓷表带也很快能够跟上。 这款皇家橡树万年历(参考价格26579CE)的全陶瓷价格为93,900美元(发条鱼:文章为4月份出品,现在的参考价格为703000人民币),与2015年推出的黄金品种的要价相当。

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